I usually toss between two trees, eucalyptus and oak, which is a bad habit but in my defense I love both trees and they are plentiful where I live. Still, if Lennon & McCartney only wrote love songs we'd have never heard Sgt Pepper, I Am The Walrus or Glass Onion right? So, it was off to paint a Sycamore tree for me.
This one was found close to home in the local mountains. There is a stand of trees of mostly sycamore and oak right before one of the valleys. It's my favorite part of that drive and I've stopped there many times to get reference photos or just drink my coffee and enjoy a very special place. All of the land off the road belongs to local ranchers and No Trespassing signs line the gates on dirt roads that go in. It must have been a much better world back when ranchers did not fence in cattle on their land...have you ever wondered how many very cool things must be on private property that the public will never see? Not that all of the public would want to but there are those that would. Artists, writers, poets, photographers...all stop at the No Trespassing sign. Maybe there is a good point for trespassing to begin with.
A site dedicated to a continued effort to create and share my art. I create pen & ink drawings using mainly the stippling technique. I also paint in oils and am influenced by the California Impressionist school of painting.
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
A Morning Sycamore Tree
Tuesday, August 19, 2008
Ecstatic...by Association
...my pen & ink piece. Around the corner was one of my paintings and across from that "The Widow Maker" by Thomas Hoyne! "The cool thing about being in an art show in a museum is just that...it's in a museum. Museums usually have rare and wonderful things in them....hence, your work will be in a venue with such items. I am in a show at the Ventura County Maritime Museum and they have an awesome collection of Marine Art. 2 pieces of mine, a pen & ink piece and an oil painting, were not 5 feet away from the painting "Widow Maker" by Thomas Hoyne! AWESOME!! Even better, they were not 10 feet away from "Shaming The Gulls" by Hoyne. In this same room were pieces by John Stobart, Roy Cross and Christopher Blossom not to mention the late David Thimgan whose painting "Abbie off the Northern Coast" was there.

A detail of "Abbie Off The North Coast"
Artist, David Thimgan
I also have to mention they had paintings in this collection by some of the most incredible Dutch painters too. One who comes to mind is artist Hermanus Koekkoek Sr. whose painting "Mending Nets by the Shore" is simply amazing. Some had the most luminous quality. Just having my work hanging in the same room with these artists was one of those bonuses in life that you never forget.
A detail of "Mending Nets By The Shore"
Artist, Hermanus KoekKoek
I am compelled to urge anyone living near the California coast or who is visiting it that has an appreciation for Marine art to visit the Ventura County Maritime Museum...which is actually located in Oxnard, California. Seeing this wonderful art is worth the trip.
R to L - Sylvia Waters, Louis Stephen Gadal, Me. We are all members of the International Society of Marine Painters as well as members of the Coast Guard Art Program.Syrah Vineyard Light
So, this is my version of light in a vineyard...not a big old vineyard scene either...just working on light up close....doing vineyards up close like this is a whole other animal too. This is one of those paintings that looks really cool from about 5 feet back, hahaha....try it!
Sunday, August 17, 2008
A California Landscape
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
California Impressionist Feel
Sunday, August 10, 2008
Central Coast Poppies
"Central Coast Poppies"
12" X 24"
Oil on Canvas Covered Panel
Some detail shots of the painting....
Friday, August 08, 2008
Santa Ynez Vineyard Scene
Thursday, August 07, 2008
Solvang Hillside


Wednesday, August 06, 2008
Valley Nocturne
"Valley Nocturne"
9" X 12"
Oil on canvas covered panel
Tuesday, August 05, 2008
Foxen Canyon Vineyard
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
A Large Floater
Here you can see a side view sitting on the easel. The painting is just sitting inside the frame waiting to be mounted correctly with screws. After that I'll wire it up and see how it looks hanging. I'm going to take this to the vineyard show at Tres Hermanas this friday and see what the wine crowd thinks of it.
Friday, July 18, 2008
Passport Show
Thursday, July 17, 2008
A Winery

Saturday, July 05, 2008
Making Affordable Canvas Panels.....
Making your own canvas covered panels requires whatever wood panel you choose, I used Untempered Masonite panel, Glue, Canvas...and that's it! You can also use MDF, Birch, Luan etc...it's up to you.
I had to go to a small lumber yard to find the Untempered masonite by the sheet. You can't get it at Home Depot I've looked. Seems they only carry Tempered masonite now. The difference is the oil impregnated in tempered Masonite. There is a possiblility it could leach into your oil paint....I honestly feel the jury is out on that belief though. I have used it and sanded the oiled surface off before gluing on the canvas so very little oil would even contact the glue...which dries hard of course and then any oil that got to that would have to soak through the canvas...and the gesso and then finally make it to the oil paint. That's a lot of travelling and ask yourself this...have you ever met an artist you personally know who has ever had this happen to them? I don't.
So, to play it safe I found my supply for 3/16" thick Untempered masonite. How do I know it is Untempered...because the sign said so and of course it is much lighter in color than Tempered masonite which is a very dark brown color.
Anyway, all you do is cut up the masonite to whatever size panels you want. You really don't want large panels because once you frame them they can get pretty heavy. You don't want your painting to come flying off the wall dragging a hunk of plaster or drywall with it in your customers house right?...so stay small. Maybe 20" X 20", 16"X 20", and anything smaller. I made 8"x10", 9"x12", 11"x14", 12"x16", and 12"x24"s.....all from that one large sheet of masonite.
Glue....you can read an awful lot on what type to use. Theres Gak100, Miracle Muck, YES Paste, Lascaux 498. Whatever you really can afford. You can find more info on some of these products on the Judsens Guerilla Painter website, Makers of fine pochade boxes.
This time I decided to go with just normal ordinary Elmers White Glue....why? I've recently run into a pretty mega bucks painter who has been using it for years...no problem. Also, I read a book by another mega bucks painter who is well known throughout the globe and he uses it. Good enough for me. Rabbit skin glue? They have recently found out that there is some sort of mold that develops in that glue and I'm sure it will become an issue....so no rabbit skin glue for me.
Canvas...whatever weight you choose. I used Fredericks brand cotton duck. Affordable.
The process is simple, cut your panels to size, apply your glue and lay the canvas on it...press with your hands to flatten it and then stack something on top of it to weight it down while it is drying.
Here are some pics to show how I did it this time.....
Here is the panel cut to size. This time I decided to apply the glue to the rough back side leaving the smooth side for the back of the finished panel....just looks better. Behind is my canvas pre-cut 1'' or more larger than my panel. Also are some drying 9"x12"'s with weights on top of a scrap piece of panel.
I then applied the glue pretty evenly with one of those throwaway brushes that was wet to ease spreading the glue out.
Then you just lay your canvas on top of that and smooth it out with your hand....I also rolled a brayer over it to roll it as flat as possible. Not necessary if you don't have one but if you do it helps. If you buy one get a wide one. Mine is pretty small but did the job.
Then you let it dry. I do a bunch at one time, stack them and put a scrap piece on top with whatever weights I can find...you can use books too. The Elmers dries in an 1-2 hours but you can leave it overnight for extra measure. Then you just trim it. Lay the panel canvas side down and use the edge of the panel as a guide while you cut off the excess canvas with a utility knife.
These have a great tight bond and look very similar to a very famous brand of panels that cost much, much more.
Cool edges huh? If I had tons of money I'd just buy them but since I don't making them is a very practical alternative....and it is very easy!Friday, June 27, 2008
Build an Oak Floater Frame
You can buy these ready made or have them made per your dimensions if you look around online or talk to your local framer. Since my framing budget is nowhere near that of many painters whose names you know I made this one myself...it is my second floater frame I've made and came out pretty good I think.
I then cut the length into 4 pieces. Then cut the width for the sides and back and then cut miter cuts where the 2 pieces will join at 90 degree angles. The miter cut is a 45 degree cut.
The next step is to assemble the four sides of the frame with wood glue and either small finishing nails or brads. I used brads shot with an airgun (fast!) but a hammer and finishing nails would work fine. If you used an epoxy glue you could probably skip nailing altogether. I was working alone so having this little clamp to hold the corners is great! I should have bought two though.
This is a crummy picture of the next step...nailing the back to the sides but you can see how the miter cut works. It gives you a nice joined edge
That is the basic assembly. Let it dry overnight and then sand all the sides and edges. I sand a smooth radius around the front edges and corners too. After that you wipe it down to get the sawdust off of it and then start rubbing in the wax. I used a wax with an orange oil in it to protect the wood. I love this step because now the oak really shows it's beauty.
Here is the whole frame waxed up....nice! From this point you just drill holes in the back of the frame and then place your painting in there...get the sides even and then screw into the back of your strecther bars to hold it all together.
Here is the frame and painting mounted together.
Here you can see the gap between frame and canvas. Also, the corners and edges. Notice the side nails are placed at bottom and top of frame so you can't see them. The back is nailed from behind so you can't see those nails either.
It looks like a ton of work but this second frame was much easier to build than the first...all of the figuring out was spent on that first one. I've seen versions of framing paintings where they built the frame flush with the edges of the painting and made no back at all. I've seen one like that made that was simply built of pine and then sprayed with black paint and it looked pretty cool too. Just a matter of what results you are looking for.
If you kept the edges all flat without the miter cuts and could find the wood in the correct thickness you could build this frame with just a miter box made of wood or plastic. It's just hard finding the wood in the right thickness. My wood is 3/8" thick and I started with 1" thick wood. That's why you need a table saw to do this. The table saw is also needed to cut the miter cuts. It's a fun project though....give it a try sometime.
UPDATE.....here is a pic of the back of the frame showing how the canvas mounts to the frame. The canvas lays flat against the back of the frame. Your stretcher bars of the canvas will butt up against the back of the frame. All you need to do is center the canvas in the frame and drill a pilot hole through the back of the frame and into your stretcher bar. Then simply put a screw in to hold your canvas to the back of the frame. I used 4 screws to mount this painting. To center the painting I use either pieces of foam core or bits of old mat board placed between the frame and the edge of the canvas...just add pieces until the painting is even on all 4 sides.
ANOTHER UPDATE....Here are some additional pics of the assembly of the frame. Again, the shape of the frame is an "L" for each side of the frame. I did a mitre cut on each piece where they are glued together forming the "L". A mitre cut is a 45 degree bevel cut (actually any degree of bevel). For additonal strength I shot 3/4" brads, which are like finishing nails, in from the back of the frame....see diagram below.
Instead of brads you can use small finishing nails. I bought an air powered brad gun, which is a lot like an electric staple gun, at Harbor Freight for about $20. I already had a compressor to run it. I'm sure they sell manual or electric brad guns too....try Home Depot.
Here you can see from the behind the frame looking down from the top. The brads (circled in white) are shot from the top and from behind the frame. This keeps the viewer from seeing the brads when the frame hangs on the wall. Brads at the bottom of the frame are shot upward...the reverse of these tops ones. You can also see the mounting sheet metal screw going through the back of the frame and into the back of the stretcher bar holding the painting to the frame.
By shooting the brads from the top and back of the frame you end up with a smooth brad-free frame side like it is shown below. By using the bevelled mitre cut to join the sides and back you have a seamless joint.
Friday, June 20, 2008
Show in Ventura, CA

Coos Bay Oregon Show

I have had my painting "Morning Boats, Rogue River" juried into the 15th Annual Maritime Art Exhibit at the Coos Art Museum in Coos Bay Oregon. Here are the details....
Santa Ynez Meadow
"Santa Ynez Meadow"
Saturday, June 14, 2008
Backyard Nocturne
Here is the reference photo I worked from....
Monday, June 09, 2008
More Mojave Desert
"Mojave Wash"Did this one recently to add to my paintings done of the Mojave desert. It's good to paint something else besides scenes of the Central Coast of California. This is a small wash running through the desert caused by flash floods from the strong rains that come at times. It is a small 9"X12" painting.
A Detailed image of the painting......




